Yes, it has a compressor! This is the most difficult part of the installation, and was accomplished by handing the tricky bit over to the professional.
The tricky bit is the bracket that holds both the compressor and the adjustment wheel. This was constructed by my local Valiant specialist (Brad at Val Wreck - 97209770). The bracket had to be manufactured because firstly there weren't a lot of slant sixes with A/C compressors (although Brad assures me there were a few VEs fitted with it) and secondly even if there were, they weren't fitted with my extractors, which could get in the way. Pictures will come later.
The bottom pulley used was taken from a hemi: The diameter is perfect but the holes don't match up, so he had to drill two new ones (I think the hemi has four, but the slant only has three). I also had to re-route the fuel line a bit, since the compressor would otherwise have squashed it. This is hopefully only temporary, though, as I intend to put multi point EFI on it when I get around to it.
The next thing on the to-do list is installing the new heater/evaporator. One change I have to make there is that since there is no control for where the air intake is sourced from, I have opted to take the easy road: I'll be blocking up the normal air intake from the plenum and have recycled air only. Making it source the air from the plenum is much harder, and switching from plenum to recycle is more difficult again. That's not to say it's not a possibility for the future: I'm a big fan of a quiet car, and everyone knows that when you switch to recycle you're turning up the noise by about 400%. I tried doing this job last week, but only then discovered how hard it was going to be to include the outside air and replaced the old core. When the old core comes out this time, it will stay out.
One little problem we had was that the fan was too close to the new compressor and would have smashed it to pieces if we'd started the engine with it in place. The fix was a combination of two actions:
1. We put a slightly longer spacer on the water pump. This gives the bonus effect of pulling more air through the radiator and thus making the cooling system more efficient.
2. Cut outs in the fan. We cut out "L" shaped pieces from the fan blades. This matched the original fans, so we didn't feel bad about it.
One other job from last weekend was that I reverse flushed the coolant. Due to several leaks and a broken radiator early this year I never got around to replacing the antifreeze. The result is very brown looking water, and rust isn't the sort of thing you want washing through your nice new system or causing your radiator to block. Cooling is extremely important with an A/C system because:
1. Your compressor is a drag on the motor and causes more heat to be generated.
2. Your condenser (the small radiator at the front of the water radiator) gets cooled first by the incoming air, leaving warmer than normal air for the water cooling.
3. You will be using your A/C mostly on hot days.
Brad said to try it out as-is and keep an eye on the temperature gauge. This is how I tend to do this sort of thing anyway. Obviously if the temperature rises too much I will tweak the system by, for example, adding a fan shroud, which improves the effectiveness of the cooling. It already has a cool thermostat so there's little to no danger of overheating during this testing.
The next option would be a seven bladed fan from a CL or CM. If it's still too hat we'll be looking at an electric thermo fan. Another bonus here would be that it is more efficient, since it doesn't come on at all until needed.
Well, that's all for now. Photos later.
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Aircon update
Well, there are sporadic outbreaks of Summer now. Even though the temperatures aren't soaring in the open, the sunlight is obviously much stronger, and the cabin of the Val heats rapidly now.
It seems I haven't done due diligence on the evaporator/heater. That same model is $157 from a professional custom AC specialist. Rather than try and take it back with a lie (e.g. I changed my mind, it doesn't fit, etc.) I'll just take the near $100 hit. Own fault really, but learn my lesson, people. I've found that ebay holds very few bargains these days. The other day I couldn't find a particular computer CPU for less than $279, but it was $199 in a local shop! Sellers also complain about ebay's massive increase in charges over the past ten years. I've all but abandoned it now for other, sometimes more traditional, methods.
Speaking of which, the custom AC professionals in question (frozen air Keysborough) were recommended by a work associate. Franck spoke to me for ages about exactly what my options are regarding this. Being able to work on my own car has great cost benefits. Well, OK I knew this but it applies even more when doing AC work. Franck took the wind out of my sails a bit by telling me of all the things that can go wrong with putting second hand stuff into your car. Hope returned when he let me know how cheap the parts are! A brand new AC compressor can cost as little as $200, a condenser (the radiator bit) is only about $120 and of course the evaporator is about $157. The difficult and therefore expensive thing is mounting this cheap compressor on the slant. Brad from Valiant Spares will be doing this for me next week, at $750 - $800 estimated cost. Hoping to get the whole thing up and running perfectly for around the $1700 mark. It's ebay for the Ford parts now :-(
Oh, and one more thing, You can get all of the brackets for a DIY job. See http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-conditioning/170-225cc-six-cylinder-chrysler-compressor-mount-kit-306.php for details. This will save you a heap of money. Unfortunately I am a bit "time poor" now. The brackets and pulleys are extremely expensive to have made otherwise, as they'd be a one-off (and cost about $500!).
It seems I haven't done due diligence on the evaporator/heater. That same model is $157 from a professional custom AC specialist. Rather than try and take it back with a lie (e.g. I changed my mind, it doesn't fit, etc.) I'll just take the near $100 hit. Own fault really, but learn my lesson, people. I've found that ebay holds very few bargains these days. The other day I couldn't find a particular computer CPU for less than $279, but it was $199 in a local shop! Sellers also complain about ebay's massive increase in charges over the past ten years. I've all but abandoned it now for other, sometimes more traditional, methods.
Speaking of which, the custom AC professionals in question (frozen air Keysborough) were recommended by a work associate. Franck spoke to me for ages about exactly what my options are regarding this. Being able to work on my own car has great cost benefits. Well, OK I knew this but it applies even more when doing AC work. Franck took the wind out of my sails a bit by telling me of all the things that can go wrong with putting second hand stuff into your car. Hope returned when he let me know how cheap the parts are! A brand new AC compressor can cost as little as $200, a condenser (the radiator bit) is only about $120 and of course the evaporator is about $157. The difficult and therefore expensive thing is mounting this cheap compressor on the slant. Brad from Valiant Spares will be doing this for me next week, at $750 - $800 estimated cost. Hoping to get the whole thing up and running perfectly for around the $1700 mark. It's ebay for the Ford parts now :-(
Oh, and one more thing, You can get all of the brackets for a DIY job. See http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-conditioning/170-225cc-six-cylinder-chrysler-compressor-mount-kit-306.php for details. This will save you a heap of money. Unfortunately I am a bit "time poor" now. The brackets and pulleys are extremely expensive to have made otherwise, as they'd be a one-off (and cost about $500!).
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Putting the EFI on hold for now
Here is the reason:
1. Mating the Ford item to the Holley slant six manifold was impossible (well, without a further $600 or so) and wouldn't have looked very good.
I have decided to go about it differently. The Ford already has an inlet manifold. Is it possible to modify this to go straight on to the slant? I believe it is, but since the inlet holes are spaced differently (ford holes are uniform, slant six holes are not) it would be no easy task. I want to cut the metal separating the Ford manifold and make an Aluminium mount that will bolt to the slant on one side and to the EFI manifold bit on the other. Either way it will almost certainly require a new fuel rail. I'm going to halt it for now, though.
2. It's getting warm in Melbourne.
The Val isn't the most inviting car in the Summer. Last Summer I painted the roof white (well, off-white) to cut down on roof heat which worked really well. Also tinted the windows, and in a large wagon that's not a trivial task. Finally, when the roof lining went on earlier this year, I had the upholsterer add some extra insulation.
After all that, I know it will still be unbearable when it gets over 30, so it's time to get the Ford's Air conditioning unit on and working.
In preparation, I bought (from ebay) a brand new after market heating and cooling unit for $255. This fits under the dash and in theory will attach to all existing heater outlets. This means you don't have a large and very obvious looking unit right there at your passenger's legs. It just replaces your original one and adds an evaporator and (hopefully) quieter fan. Haven't heard it yet, and have no idea how difficult it will be to fit.
Disadvantages include that I will be losing a face-level outlet. You can buy these but I chose the hidden option instead.
It will be a while before I can get around to fit it, but will keep you informed of course.
1. Mating the Ford item to the Holley slant six manifold was impossible (well, without a further $600 or so) and wouldn't have looked very good.
I have decided to go about it differently. The Ford already has an inlet manifold. Is it possible to modify this to go straight on to the slant? I believe it is, but since the inlet holes are spaced differently (ford holes are uniform, slant six holes are not) it would be no easy task. I want to cut the metal separating the Ford manifold and make an Aluminium mount that will bolt to the slant on one side and to the EFI manifold bit on the other. Either way it will almost certainly require a new fuel rail. I'm going to halt it for now, though.
2. It's getting warm in Melbourne.
The Val isn't the most inviting car in the Summer. Last Summer I painted the roof white (well, off-white) to cut down on roof heat which worked really well. Also tinted the windows, and in a large wagon that's not a trivial task. Finally, when the roof lining went on earlier this year, I had the upholsterer add some extra insulation.
After all that, I know it will still be unbearable when it gets over 30, so it's time to get the Ford's Air conditioning unit on and working.
In preparation, I bought (from ebay) a brand new after market heating and cooling unit for $255. This fits under the dash and in theory will attach to all existing heater outlets. This means you don't have a large and very obvious looking unit right there at your passenger's legs. It just replaces your original one and adds an evaporator and (hopefully) quieter fan. Haven't heard it yet, and have no idea how difficult it will be to fit.
Disadvantages include that I will be losing a face-level outlet. You can buy these but I chose the hidden option instead.
It will be a while before I can get around to fit it, but will keep you informed of course.
Monday, October 4, 2010
Some pictures of the Ford system
As mentioned, I took the camera along to the wrecker, since it's a hell of a lot easier to look at a comprehensive set of photos than it is to make notes. Really - that's a good tip: How do I know this is useful? I couldn't believe how many people see me take a photo before doing work on a car and say "Hey, that's a good idea". Until my dad, who has two digital cameras and a camera phone and works on a lot of cars, said it that I thought "maybe this isn't obvious to everyone". I'm a fundamentally lazy person, and to qualify this, here is how my mind now works:
1. Preparation is really important. Too many times I've just jumped into a project then realise that firstly I don't have any, for example, gasket cement. Or, maybe the part isn't identical to the one I took off. Whatever it is, in the past I have had to make multiple trips to the wrecker, autobarn, the hardware shop, etc. A simple 'phone call to the engine shop tells you in advance that, say, they won't get around to machining your head until Thursday, so you can plan around it and not remove it until Wednesday. Prep will save you a lot of time.
2. Take photos. A picture is more than worth a thousand words. Don't rely on your repair manual. If you have in the past you should already have uttered the words "bloody crap manual!". If you're thinking "My God, that guy's psychic" I'm not: Everyone has had the same experience. Take the time to take good photos. Pay particular attention to wiring, even if you think you know where everything goes. Take multiple angles before you start. About 90% or more of your photos will be before or during disassembly/removal. Anything you do afterwards is just for your ego anyway - unimportant. Good photos will save you time - take your camera to the wrecker.
3. Never, ever rush. If you expect a job to take an hour and you have to leave in just over an hour, don't start the job. My dad (was a mechanic for many decades) said to expect all jobs to take twice as long as you expect. I found that sometimes even that was very optimistic, but if you leave two hours for the one hour job and it actually only takes an hour (I have found this to be the very rare exception), that's a bonus.
4. Don't get angry. Think about it: Why get angry at metal, plastic etc. It's not trying to piss you off. How can it? Giving you advice to calm down is what I won't do: If you become aware that you're getting angry at the nut that just won't turn, stop trying. Take yourself away from it for a minute. Cup of tea, toilet break etc and you'll probably come up with a new plan on the way back to the garage. Getting angry will set you back and you may break something expensive.
5. Concentrate. When you are taking off the manifold, that's all your mind should be doing, and not thinking about last night or what you'll be doing later. Concentrate as completely as you can on the task you're doing now and not thinking about anything else will add quality to the job. You won't forget to tighten nuts and you won't take short cuts.
OK, here's the engine bay. It's clear that the car was on LPG here. I noticed that the gas converter (far side of the bay) was an "OHG". I did an LPG course in 1991 and OHG (over the hill gang, older Impco workers made redundant who started their own factory) were popular then. They haven't existed for some time now so I didn't take it. My car already has LPG so I'll use my own converter with the inline mixer you can see in the picture.
Here is most of it later that day, on the back porch.
Might have mentioned this already, but my dad was rather annoyed at my wanting to get the entire EFI wiring loom. I considered it a massive time saver. As well as the useful connectors, it will only work in the same layout as the original. What I mean is that if you try to connect the knock sensor, for example, only the right connector will reach it comfortably.
The manifold is fantastically well constructed, and in multiple parts. It would be great if I could use this on the slant, but I measured the lengths this morning and the slant is significantly longer. Well, I already bought the slant EFI manifold, so I'll be heading to the engine shop this afternoon to get their advice and get some prices. Will be calling two of the usuals beforehand. More later.
1. Preparation is really important. Too many times I've just jumped into a project then realise that firstly I don't have any, for example, gasket cement. Or, maybe the part isn't identical to the one I took off. Whatever it is, in the past I have had to make multiple trips to the wrecker, autobarn, the hardware shop, etc. A simple 'phone call to the engine shop tells you in advance that, say, they won't get around to machining your head until Thursday, so you can plan around it and not remove it until Wednesday. Prep will save you a lot of time.
2. Take photos. A picture is more than worth a thousand words. Don't rely on your repair manual. If you have in the past you should already have uttered the words "bloody crap manual!". If you're thinking "My God, that guy's psychic" I'm not: Everyone has had the same experience. Take the time to take good photos. Pay particular attention to wiring, even if you think you know where everything goes. Take multiple angles before you start. About 90% or more of your photos will be before or during disassembly/removal. Anything you do afterwards is just for your ego anyway - unimportant. Good photos will save you time - take your camera to the wrecker.
3. Never, ever rush. If you expect a job to take an hour and you have to leave in just over an hour, don't start the job. My dad (was a mechanic for many decades) said to expect all jobs to take twice as long as you expect. I found that sometimes even that was very optimistic, but if you leave two hours for the one hour job and it actually only takes an hour (I have found this to be the very rare exception), that's a bonus.
4. Don't get angry. Think about it: Why get angry at metal, plastic etc. It's not trying to piss you off. How can it? Giving you advice to calm down is what I won't do: If you become aware that you're getting angry at the nut that just won't turn, stop trying. Take yourself away from it for a minute. Cup of tea, toilet break etc and you'll probably come up with a new plan on the way back to the garage. Getting angry will set you back and you may break something expensive.
5. Concentrate. When you are taking off the manifold, that's all your mind should be doing, and not thinking about last night or what you'll be doing later. Concentrate as completely as you can on the task you're doing now and not thinking about anything else will add quality to the job. You won't forget to tighten nuts and you won't take short cuts.
OK, here's the engine bay. It's clear that the car was on LPG here. I noticed that the gas converter (far side of the bay) was an "OHG". I did an LPG course in 1991 and OHG (over the hill gang, older Impco workers made redundant who started their own factory) were popular then. They haven't existed for some time now so I didn't take it. My car already has LPG so I'll use my own converter with the inline mixer you can see in the picture.
Here is most of it later that day, on the back porch.
Might have mentioned this already, but my dad was rather annoyed at my wanting to get the entire EFI wiring loom. I considered it a massive time saver. As well as the useful connectors, it will only work in the same layout as the original. What I mean is that if you try to connect the knock sensor, for example, only the right connector will reach it comfortably.
The manifold is fantastically well constructed, and in multiple parts. It would be great if I could use this on the slant, but I measured the lengths this morning and the slant is significantly longer. Well, I already bought the slant EFI manifold, so I'll be heading to the engine shop this afternoon to get their advice and get some prices. Will be calling two of the usuals beforehand. More later.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Saturday was the day
For me the Grand Final hold very little interest. So, at 9am, Dad and I got into the Val and went to Moorabbin to scavenge EFI parts off a ZL Fairlane.
The parts on a ZL are the same as those on an XF Falcon (/Fairmont) or equivalent LTD. I chose these because from the book (1991 edition of the Gregorys Engine Management book - invaluable), it looked a lot like the most advanced EFI setup that doesn't use a crankshaft position sensor, which would have required welding. As a bonus it's from a Ford, and is therefore extremely common and well understood. The system is the first version of Ford's "EEC-IV" (I pronounce it "eck four", don't know if that's right or not).
The car was from ebay. I would have bought the whole car but for space issues. A Fairlane with EFI, rear discs, LPG, Air conditioning, power steering, cruise control and nobody bid the minimum $500 even after re-listing it! What sort of world do we live in? I'll tell you - one with this sort of bargain. I called the seller (Mark, from D & M Spares) and asked if he would now wreck it. Yes, of course, or I wouldn't be telling you this.
So we were there Sat morning and got straight to it. Mark helped a lot and even provided access to his repair manual ($3 from ebay! Needless to say, he has recognised the bargains available too). I took quite a few photos but left them at home, so will upload later.
I also bought the air conditioning system. less the under dash stuff. The reason for leaving that out was simply that it is unlikely to fit any other car. It's an integrated heater/AC and I thought a lot of effort for a lot more effort trying to fit it in the Val followed by likely disappointment when it doesn't fit. I will just buy one of those after market under dash jobs.
It took about five hours to relieve the car of it's precious cargo. I say cargo here because judging by the smell of the petrol (like paint - really) the injectors haven't been spraying out any petrol for over twenty years. Possible problems are the fuel pump, which definitely won't work: Even if it didn't have melted seals, and wasn't clogged up with petrol paint, it was built in to the fuel tank. I don't like my chances of getting it into the Val's tank then getting it working. No, an external pump is essential. Luckily Mark has a VH Commodore unit at home for me.
My dad wanted to cut all of the wires that went to the injection system, but I didn't. It was decided to remove everything under the bonnet except for wiring to the headlights. I took the distributor, all relays (and by God there were a lot of relays) and connectors. It probably added an hour to the job but meant saving probably six hours of guesswork and probably damaging components in the process. This system did not incorporate an oxygen sensor. Initially I thought this was good, but these can be an invaluable tool in setting your computer. Here's how: When the air-fuel ratio is right they will produce 0.7 volts. This is at 450C (where the six pipes merge is a good place to put it) and at 4000RPM. The actual adjustment of this ratio is done by modification of the air flow meter's output. Theory is if you want to change the mixture change the resistance provided by this meter. If you tell the computer there is less air flowing than there is, it will put less petrol to the injectors, thus giving you a leaner mixture. Doing the opposite will give a richer mix. So, using resistors, an oxygen sensor and a multi meter, you can tune your car! Actually, if you have a carby, you can still use the sensor, but obviously with a carby you'll have to open it up and swap jets.
Anyway, I'll be back later with pictures of the parts. Here's the engine bay:
The parts on a ZL are the same as those on an XF Falcon (/Fairmont) or equivalent LTD. I chose these because from the book (1991 edition of the Gregorys Engine Management book - invaluable), it looked a lot like the most advanced EFI setup that doesn't use a crankshaft position sensor, which would have required welding. As a bonus it's from a Ford, and is therefore extremely common and well understood. The system is the first version of Ford's "EEC-IV" (I pronounce it "eck four", don't know if that's right or not).
The car was from ebay. I would have bought the whole car but for space issues. A Fairlane with EFI, rear discs, LPG, Air conditioning, power steering, cruise control and nobody bid the minimum $500 even after re-listing it! What sort of world do we live in? I'll tell you - one with this sort of bargain. I called the seller (Mark, from D & M Spares) and asked if he would now wreck it. Yes, of course, or I wouldn't be telling you this.
So we were there Sat morning and got straight to it. Mark helped a lot and even provided access to his repair manual ($3 from ebay! Needless to say, he has recognised the bargains available too). I took quite a few photos but left them at home, so will upload later.
I also bought the air conditioning system. less the under dash stuff. The reason for leaving that out was simply that it is unlikely to fit any other car. It's an integrated heater/AC and I thought a lot of effort for a lot more effort trying to fit it in the Val followed by likely disappointment when it doesn't fit. I will just buy one of those after market under dash jobs.
It took about five hours to relieve the car of it's precious cargo. I say cargo here because judging by the smell of the petrol (like paint - really) the injectors haven't been spraying out any petrol for over twenty years. Possible problems are the fuel pump, which definitely won't work: Even if it didn't have melted seals, and wasn't clogged up with petrol paint, it was built in to the fuel tank. I don't like my chances of getting it into the Val's tank then getting it working. No, an external pump is essential. Luckily Mark has a VH Commodore unit at home for me.
My dad wanted to cut all of the wires that went to the injection system, but I didn't. It was decided to remove everything under the bonnet except for wiring to the headlights. I took the distributor, all relays (and by God there were a lot of relays) and connectors. It probably added an hour to the job but meant saving probably six hours of guesswork and probably damaging components in the process. This system did not incorporate an oxygen sensor. Initially I thought this was good, but these can be an invaluable tool in setting your computer. Here's how: When the air-fuel ratio is right they will produce 0.7 volts. This is at 450C (where the six pipes merge is a good place to put it) and at 4000RPM. The actual adjustment of this ratio is done by modification of the air flow meter's output. Theory is if you want to change the mixture change the resistance provided by this meter. If you tell the computer there is less air flowing than there is, it will put less petrol to the injectors, thus giving you a leaner mixture. Doing the opposite will give a richer mix. So, using resistors, an oxygen sensor and a multi meter, you can tune your car! Actually, if you have a carby, you can still use the sensor, but obviously with a carby you'll have to open it up and swap jets.
Anyway, I'll be back later with pictures of the parts. Here's the engine bay:
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Welcome to my new blog
Valcook is a pseudomyn mainly because my top interests at the moment at cooking and ... my Valiant! The Val was in very poor condition when I got it. Spent a fortune on it and now it's a daily driver, quite comfortable and has central locking and a car alarm, which I fitted. Someone else fitted the extractors, which massively increased the efficiency - much better power and fuel economy.
This space will include things I have done to my car and things I intend to do, as they happen.
At the moment I'm a bit obsessed with efficiency and the carburettor doesn't work very well. On LPG it takes a full ten seconds to start the engine! Once started it will run brilliantly on LPG, but it uses almost twice the fuel it did when running well on petrol. What could I possibly do? Well, tried putting a kit through the carby but this did nothing more than cost me money. The fact is that it is almost certainly wear in the throttle body causing the drama. Haven't mentioned the drama? Sorry...
The drama: It doesn't start at all on petrol usually. If it does, it runs like crap until warm, then still exhibits a massive flat spot at the start of acceleration. So, there's a pretty major problem running either fuel, AND I don't know how efficiently the thing is running.
The Solution: So how about EFI? I've been doing a bit (a lot) of reading about it and it seems that the whole thing can be accomplished using an old Ford EEC-IV coupled to an Aussiespeed four barrel EFI slant six manifold (don't laugh, they really exist). I'll have to at least heavily modify the fuel rail or even make a new one. I get the manifold ($435 from a 1987 ZL Fairlane) tomorrow and the rest on Sat morning from a wrecker (he said $250 for the whole lot). So, is it worth $685? We will see. I'll take a lot of photos and put them up as the project goes. Also decided to have a go at putting an oxygen sensor into the exhaust to help tune it. These sound like a fantastic diagnostic tool and I happen to have one sitting in the shed. Advantages of EFI I'm keen on are:
1. Easier to start the car
2. Tunable fuel system
3. Better Fuel economy (it's a 3.7L slant six).
4. More power
5. Less pollution. OK, I don't care much about this, but it is a side-effect nonetheless.
Reliability was going to be in there too, but I can't imagine the Val being more reliable than it is.
More after I get the manifold.
This space will include things I have done to my car and things I intend to do, as they happen.
At the moment I'm a bit obsessed with efficiency and the carburettor doesn't work very well. On LPG it takes a full ten seconds to start the engine! Once started it will run brilliantly on LPG, but it uses almost twice the fuel it did when running well on petrol. What could I possibly do? Well, tried putting a kit through the carby but this did nothing more than cost me money. The fact is that it is almost certainly wear in the throttle body causing the drama. Haven't mentioned the drama? Sorry...
The drama: It doesn't start at all on petrol usually. If it does, it runs like crap until warm, then still exhibits a massive flat spot at the start of acceleration. So, there's a pretty major problem running either fuel, AND I don't know how efficiently the thing is running.
The Solution: So how about EFI? I've been doing a bit (a lot) of reading about it and it seems that the whole thing can be accomplished using an old Ford EEC-IV coupled to an Aussiespeed four barrel EFI slant six manifold (don't laugh, they really exist). I'll have to at least heavily modify the fuel rail or even make a new one. I get the manifold ($435 from a 1987 ZL Fairlane) tomorrow and the rest on Sat morning from a wrecker (he said $250 for the whole lot). So, is it worth $685? We will see. I'll take a lot of photos and put them up as the project goes. Also decided to have a go at putting an oxygen sensor into the exhaust to help tune it. These sound like a fantastic diagnostic tool and I happen to have one sitting in the shed. Advantages of EFI I'm keen on are:
1. Easier to start the car
2. Tunable fuel system
3. Better Fuel economy (it's a 3.7L slant six).
4. More power
5. Less pollution. OK, I don't care much about this, but it is a side-effect nonetheless.
Reliability was going to be in there too, but I can't imagine the Val being more reliable than it is.
More after I get the manifold.
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