Well since it was about 35 yesterday, I decided to take the Valiant to pick the little one up from school. When it got to operating temperature, I just left the fan on. To further test it, I turned the air conditioning fan to full and the thermostat to the coldest setting. In stages of course since I didn't want the embarrassment of being stranded. It all worked really well, and I left the fan on a few minutes after stopping each time to prevent the usual heat build up, which all too often leads to an embarrassing blowing off of excess pressure (and water).
Also during Friday I visited the wrecker and got a nice looking volt meter from a Magna (well, it was probably put together in the same factory). Have to put it on yet, but it tested OK. Should then be able to tell if we ever get a case of over voltage or if the alternator just dies.
I also picked up a different thermostat: One I had a threaded nut for. Although I haven't faltered yet with turning the fan on and off, it'd be nice if it were taken care of automatically. This will be a job for next week.
Drive safely, preferably in an old Valiant, of course.
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Monday, March 4, 2013
A few improvements
OK, last weekend was a big one for the Valiant. Several improvements made, and the car is better by far.
Luckily (or it may be normal) the alarm has the ability to activate the central locking. Mine pulses a 400mA signal. The only way to get it working is to use two standard (bosch type) relays.
Here is how a relay is wired (taken from http://www.pbase.com/image/35092434.jpg):
The activation signal is (in my case) wired with a 12V wire at the other end. Activation signal from alarm to 87, battery to 30. This will allow the other two terminals to bridge. Other terminals are 86 to earth (a good one) and 87 to the central locking's "lock all" signal wire.
Do the same with the unlock.
Electric fan
Pulled out the heavy one and put the electric fan in. Took ages (about 6 hours) and had to be offset, due to the water pump being in the way. Had to put another relay in since the fan draws a few amps. Did this first, and the ammeter went nuts every time I turned the fan on.Bypassing the firewall plug
I did the improvement mentioned last post. A simple wire to connect the alternator with the starter relay. Now of course the ammeter doesn't work (sits at zero). I have to look out for a volt meter to replace it or turn the ammeter into a volt meter. I'm thinking the second option is preferred. It's more difficult since the thing will have to be calibrated but considering over-voltage killed my last battery it's essential to get one soon.
Linking the central locking to the alarm
Luckily (or it may be normal) the alarm has the ability to activate the central locking. Mine pulses a 400mA signal. The only way to get it working is to use two standard (bosch type) relays.
Here is how a relay is wired (taken from http://www.pbase.com/image/35092434.jpg):
The activation signal is (in my case) wired with a 12V wire at the other end. Activation signal from alarm to 87, battery to 30. This will allow the other two terminals to bridge. Other terminals are 86 to earth (a good one) and 87 to the central locking's "lock all" signal wire.
Do the same with the unlock.
Next plans
Put a relay in the headlight circuit, a bigger alternator and electronic regulator.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)