Free Wheel Alignment for the old girl

A while ago I replaced the DS wishbone and ball joint. My Valiant guy's advice was to spray paint over the blah blah adjusters and I won't have to do a wheel alignment. After I replaced it, it was obvious I'd sprayed in the wrong place and so the wheel alignment was horribly out. The best thing I could do was to adjust the camber by eye for the driver's side (that's what DS is, incidentally) and take it to an alignment place later.
Alignment people said they could do a toe-in only alignment for $35 odd, but that a proper alignment would take a couple of hours at $85-$110 an hour! Needless to say I didn't take them up on it. About 6 weeks ago I happened to buy something off ebay for my daughter and picked it up where the guy worked (wheel and tyre place). He said he couldn't do an alignment until next week (it was about 15KM from home, so that was a no) but that it looked like a good job I'd done by eye.
Finally had enough of vague steering this morning and went to my Dad's place. He was a mechanic and is very good at improvisational car repair. He made up a camber tool with a spirit level and piece of angled aluminium, which he cut to the exact diameter of the rim. Placed the aluminium against the rim and the level against the aluminium (the aluminium piece was effectively an adaptor, needed because the level would be fouled by the tyre). The setup was made as vertical as possible and the bubble observed. What we should see was almost level but out very slightly at the top. I.E. \               /  
This is exaggerated of course. The angle should be about 0.5 of a degree.
Results? It seems I had the DS absolutely spot on, but surprisingly the PS (passenger side) was waaaaay out! Surprising since I hadn't touched it at all. It must have been like that for years. To fix it, I first of all measured the length in mm between the front and rear bolts and the panel on the inside. I moved it in by 3mm on both F and R, tightened the bolts, measured again, put the wheel back on (couldn't get at the bolts without removing the wheel) and moved the car back about 3m then forward (I don't trust the push down on the bonnet method of levelling). Measured with the level again and it was perfect. So, did a toe-in check, then correction, since adjusting the camber changed this then a test drive. Although it's not like power steering, it's noticeably lighter. Also, the steering is much more predictable than before which certainly makes me fell better about jumping in and taking my 10YO to school. Dad advised me to swap front and rear tyres (which I did), since the PS front is now looking a bit scrubbed thanks to running on the outside for so long.
Still a lot to do but at least she'll point straight and true :-)
Happy motoring!

P.S. The toe-in adjustment is very easy. You just need a steel measuring tape and (optionally) a piece of masking tape. With tyres facing perfectly forward, measure the distance between the two front tyres at the front-most part (that you can reach - the engine and chassis get in the way) then the rear-most part. The tyres should be 3mm (1/8") closer together at the front. If they aren't, adjust by loosening both parts of one side's tie rod ends and adjust. Tighten TREs, roll car back then forward about 3m and measure again. If you have a helper or really stiff measuring tape, you won't need the masking tape.

AC dead

Well, it seems the AC evaporator was dodgy. The fan started making noise about 6 months ago and I stupidly thought "Can't be anything wrong with it. It's brand new". Well, now I reckon it probably wasn't new (argh!) because the motor seized up and now it's just blowing fuses when I try and use it.

Well, all that trouble for nothing. Advice for anyone wanting A/C. Do it yourself or pay someone to do it. If you make a deal, get it clear and in writing.