Unemployment really curbs the restoration

Well, not that I'm restoring the old girl, but having no money means that when (for example) the A/C lost its R134a (a few weeks ago - loose fitting at the evaporator), I can't even pay for a re-gas (yes, poor me, there there). Trying to convince oneself that the quarter vent open all the way is just as good will only work until Summer really hits :-( Probably have to do it anyway, considering my ten year old bundle of... well, something (love you sweetie, really).
This car will not be restored, ever. I love it as a daily driver and will continue to patch things up (properly) and drive it, and enjoy it.

Fuses

My attempt earlier in the year (April) to replace the original fuses with one from a Hyundai ended up with my throwing the new part away and investigating the old one. Although basic, it actually works very well until one of the fuses blows, which stops everything connected to it from working. I found out that my wipers and interior light were connected to the fused side. Here's how it works:

There is one power feed from the battery (always on) and one from the ignition (only one with the ignition). Keep a good supply of 15A fuses (a packet in the glove box), you have four options for any device you connect.
Do you want it fused or not? Do you need it on all the time. I'd recommend not putting the wipers on the fused end. For that matter the interior light shouldn't be fused either. If you have an alarm and the interior light doesn't work, neither will your alarm!
Definitely have the heater (and A/C if you have one) on the ignition side, and I have mine fused in case my stupidity or carelessness results in a short circuit (disconnection prior to working on the electrical system is advised here. Take note, me).
If you want extra safety, put in-line fuses on your devices. I've found it's so much easier to use the simple system Chrysler engineers put there.  Oh, and the diagram was just drawn by me: It won't necessarily look exactly like the fuse connector (which is more square and has a plastic cover). The fuse connector is located about halfway along your dash, and is secured with a screw. Remember that before taking a screwdriver near it, one part is connected directly to your battery!

Free Wheel Alignment for the old girl

A while ago I replaced the DS wishbone and ball joint. My Valiant guy's advice was to spray paint over the blah blah adjusters and I won't have to do a wheel alignment. After I replaced it, it was obvious I'd sprayed in the wrong place and so the wheel alignment was horribly out. The best thing I could do was to adjust the camber by eye for the driver's side (that's what DS is, incidentally) and take it to an alignment place later.
Alignment people said they could do a toe-in only alignment for $35 odd, but that a proper alignment would take a couple of hours at $85-$110 an hour! Needless to say I didn't take them up on it. About 6 weeks ago I happened to buy something off ebay for my daughter and picked it up where the guy worked (wheel and tyre place). He said he couldn't do an alignment until next week (it was about 15KM from home, so that was a no) but that it looked like a good job I'd done by eye.
Finally had enough of vague steering this morning and went to my Dad's place. He was a mechanic and is very good at improvisational car repair. He made up a camber tool with a spirit level and piece of angled aluminium, which he cut to the exact diameter of the rim. Placed the aluminium against the rim and the level against the aluminium (the aluminium piece was effectively an adaptor, needed because the level would be fouled by the tyre). The setup was made as vertical as possible and the bubble observed. What we should see was almost level but out very slightly at the top. I.E. \               /  
This is exaggerated of course. The angle should be about 0.5 of a degree.
Results? It seems I had the DS absolutely spot on, but surprisingly the PS (passenger side) was waaaaay out! Surprising since I hadn't touched it at all. It must have been like that for years. To fix it, I first of all measured the length in mm between the front and rear bolts and the panel on the inside. I moved it in by 3mm on both F and R, tightened the bolts, measured again, put the wheel back on (couldn't get at the bolts without removing the wheel) and moved the car back about 3m then forward (I don't trust the push down on the bonnet method of levelling). Measured with the level again and it was perfect. So, did a toe-in check, then correction, since adjusting the camber changed this then a test drive. Although it's not like power steering, it's noticeably lighter. Also, the steering is much more predictable than before which certainly makes me fell better about jumping in and taking my 10YO to school. Dad advised me to swap front and rear tyres (which I did), since the PS front is now looking a bit scrubbed thanks to running on the outside for so long.
Still a lot to do but at least she'll point straight and true :-)
Happy motoring!

P.S. The toe-in adjustment is very easy. You just need a steel measuring tape and (optionally) a piece of masking tape. With tyres facing perfectly forward, measure the distance between the two front tyres at the front-most part (that you can reach - the engine and chassis get in the way) then the rear-most part. The tyres should be 3mm (1/8") closer together at the front. If they aren't, adjust by loosening both parts of one side's tie rod ends and adjust. Tighten TREs, roll car back then forward about 3m and measure again. If you have a helper or really stiff measuring tape, you won't need the masking tape.

AC dead

Well, it seems the AC evaporator was dodgy. The fan started making noise about 6 months ago and I stupidly thought "Can't be anything wrong with it. It's brand new". Well, now I reckon it probably wasn't new (argh!) because the motor seized up and now it's just blowing fuses when I try and use it.

Well, all that trouble for nothing. Advice for anyone wanting A/C. Do it yourself or pay someone to do it. If you make a deal, get it clear and in writing.

AC guy, soul and conscience-free solicitors and damage repair

I won't be recommending the AC guy, because of a couple of things. He broke my heater core (green water leaked all over the new carpet), removed the gasket between heater box and air intake, then renegged on the deal that we had. He kept changing his mind about what he wanted and finally said the deal was off and he was unilaterally changing it so I had to pay him a heap of cash! If I didn't pay? He threatened to "send the boys round" to collect this fictitious money. He also refused to acknowledge the damage to the heater or the removed gasket. The gasket is actually a large piece that seals the air. Without it, the air box is effectively always 100% open! My 9YO daughter didn't approve, particulary returning from Bendigo through the mountains during Winter.

So with that, I now agree with my mate Dave, who has a '74 Charger. He said he has never found a mechanic in any field who does things properly. I'd thought he was just cynical but every time I've not done something myself, I've been disappointed.

I dropped the car in a few weeks ago to have the wheels balanced and was extremely nervous when it took longer than expected. It was almost certainly due to the floor guys not knowing about the Val's left hand thread on the passenger side and turning the impact driver up to 11. The nerves were because this will damage my rims. The spot where the nuts sit when tight gets thinner every time someone does this and you will eventually have to throw the rim away or risk the wheels falling off while you're driving.

So now the damage from last October is finally being fixed. The one week in December at the repair shop started but when they finally got round to starting it (on Wednesday. It had been sitting doing nothing for Monday and Tuesday!) they hadn't contacted the bumper bar people and I had to go get the car and re-book it (sigh). So, last week it was finally booked in again. Nothing by Friday, so I contacted them. They had decided to keep it for another week because the aforementioned bumper bar repairer were dragging their heels! Of course, they hadn't thought to let me know I would be without my car for another week. Who would really miss their car an extra week anyway?!? This is almost three weeks they've needed to fix some very small damage. Thanks a lot Dave, you were right again.

Had an accident on 19th Dec in my GFs car. A taxi performed a rapid left hand turn from the right turn lane of Spring St, Preston. Pretty obvious whose fault it was, since I was going straight ahead and the driver was definitely familiar with the post accident procedure. Received a bill yesterday from a solicitor for the damage to the taxi, three days lost wages and their expenses in issuing the threat to pay. They stated it was 100% my negligent driving that caused the accident (apparently I caused him to put his indicator on then violently accelerate into my rear wheel arch). My GFs insurer said that this solicitor represents the taxi company, who has no insurance (really. I thought this would be necessary, given the number of accidents they cause) and they were very aggressive in pinning the blame on the innocent party. Occasionally they also win in court. This would obviously necessitate their side lying about what happened and where it happened. Really, you see it on the news and on drama series, but do people really do this for a living and sleep at night? Sure the AC guy lied about quite a few things, but that was mostly about his ego, and the money he demanded was part of this, since to him it meant he was therefore right about everything. These solicitors know they are lying. They know they should just pay up. They know I am the victim already, yet they are OK with suing me for thousands of dollars and making me pay for the repair of my own car too. Yes Dave, I'm sure you knew about this too but I don't feel great about it.